Baba Keva

For those who know Bulgaria…they know Baba’s.  They are generally any woman who is old enough to have grandchildren. In fact, Baba translated into English is grandmother.  However, here you walk around greeting them as a Baba.  For example, my morning walk to language class consists of “Dobro Ootro Baba Snezha,” “Dobro Ootro Baba Tino,” “Dobro Ootro Baba Maria,” and finally “Dobro Ootro Baba Keva.”  Now, Baba Snezha is my Baba. But Baba Keva I met one of the first days with my host family.  I could tell right away that she is one of those poor individuals that exists in small towns where people put up with them, but hope they don’t show up when you have guests.  I could also tell that my family is very charitable with her.  As in…she was fed dinner, but sat at the little miniature table in the driveway.  Now, Baba Keva I’ve always been able to communicate with better than even member’s of my host family.  I could never figure it out….especially the day I learned that she drinks alot and is basically always drunk.  I learned that two ways.  (It’s funny how you learn thing when you can hardly speak the language.)  The first was the day she was walking next to me and made that universal signal of drinking alcohol…you know, you make the hang ten sign, throw your head back, and pretend to drink from your thumb.  She also said the Bulgarian word for beer (this was easy to learn, considering you just add an a to the end of beer).  I thought she meant that I had been drinking so to save my Peace Corps volunteer status I indicated that ”nay, nay piya biera”.  And she said back, “nay ti” (not you), “mi” (me). I felt relieved…and immediately realized  her situation. 

Now the real story is the day I was running late for class and as I walked out the gate I met Baba Keva walking into town.  In her excitement to see me she grabbed my hand and started walking into town.  Now, on a daily basis everyone stares at me as I walk through town.  That day was worse…even the tourists, who didn’t know I was an outsider in the town, stared.  And several comments were made.  I grinned and beared it, pretending to be so engrossed in our conversation that I couldn’t understand and could therefore pretend to not notice all the stares.   We made it to the chitalishte where my fellow volunteers were standing giving me even more obnoxious stares than the townspeople.  At least I was able to explain things to them.  The best part was going home that evening and re-enacting the days events to my host family.  I’d never heard them laugh so hard.  Oh, and this is where they also gave me that universal drinking sign to indicate that Baba Keva drinks a lot.  But that’s ok, at least I can understand her. 

I tried to put her picture up…but I think it’s stuck in the gallery for awhile.  At least until I can figure this out.  Lastly, in an attempt to mention Briana in as many posts as possible I’d really like to thank her for the Red Dwarf quote that brought back lots of good memories and made me laugh on a day where everything else made me want to cry.  And for the record, mostly in case someone named Cynthia Bertsch ever reads this and feels the need to worry, today was a much better day.  After language classes I went with Joe and Theron (two other volunteers) to find what apparently is one of the oldest churches in the Balkans. It was very interesting and we rummaged through the old cemetary for awhile.  It was good to do something with them outside of class.  When I got home I helped Baba Snezha take the dried beans (bop) out of their shells.  Dyado Vassil and another Baba came to help out near the front bench.  When I’m doing things like this it reminds me of why I so much love other cultures…and experiencing them.  It got better after dinner when I was able to converse in Bulgarian with Dora.  We talked about my permanent site and how much I would love to stay in Rila and when I would find out where I’m going.  We then…somehow…amazingly…discussed the ranking of occupations in Bulgaria.  Just because I know I’m going to list them: 1. Attorney 2. Architect 3. Engineer 4. 5. 6. 7. and somewhere way on the bottom is teacher.  I told her it was very similar in America.

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